Guide to Active Ingredients
Skincare should be more than guesswork.
Actives 101 is your science-backed guide to the ingredients that power your routine—
what they are, how they work, and how to use them for real, visible results.
Hyaluronic Acid
What It Is
Hyaluronic Acid is a moisture-binding ingredient that helps your skin hold onto water. It’s found naturally in your skin, but your levels drop as you age—leading to dryness, dullness, and fine lines.
How It Works
Think of Hyaluronic Acid like a sponge— it pulls water into your skin and holds it there. This plumps up the surface, smooths texture, and keeps your barrier strong.
But not all Hyaluronic Acid reaches the same layers. That’s why the type used matters more than the percentage.
Understanding the Different Types of Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid comes in different molecular sizes—and each behaves differently:
- High Molecular Weight (HMW):
Works on the surface of your skin for instant plumping and water retention. You’ll feel this as a smoother, more hydrated top layer. - Low Molecular Weight (LMW):
Penetrates deeper into the skin to improve elasticity and reduce long-term water loss. Often used to strengthen the skin barrier. - Sodium Hyaluronate:
A stabilised salt form of Hyaluronic Acid. Smaller, more absorbable, and used in most skincare for consistent hydration.
Some brands use just one form—but using a combination creates better, longer-lasting results.
What We Use at DuoGen & Why
We use a multi-molecular Hyaluronic Acid complex to hydrate multiple layers of your skin—not just the surface.
Our formulas include:
- Sodium Hyaluronate (medium-high molecular weight) — for plumping and water retention
- PrincipHYAL® Cube³ — a patented complex that includes short, medium, and long-chain Hyaluronic Acid (from 50 to 3,000 kDa) for deep-layer hydration, elasticity, and visible smoothing over time
We also support this with:
- Glycerin, Propanediol, and Betaine — naturally hydrating ingredients that help lock in moisture and support your barrier
- No fragrance, no filler
This combination keeps your skin hydrated, bouncy, and protected—instantly and over time.
Efficacy Levels That Work
- Hyaluronic Acid works at low concentrations (even 0.1–2%) when used in the right form
- The key is using multiple molecular sizes so hydration reaches more than just the surface
- Using too much of one type can actually dry your skin if not followed with a moisturiser
What It Helps With
- Dryness and dehydration
- Fine lines caused by moisture loss
- Dull, lacklustre skin
- Weak or damaged skin barrier
- Skin tightness after cleansing
When & How to Use It
- When: Morning and evening
- How: Apply to damp skin after cleansing. Follow with moisturiser to seal in the hydration.
- How Often: Safe for daily use
Tips: If your skin feels tight after applying, you're missing the second step—seal it in with a moisturiser or face oil
You’ll Find It In
Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum
for deep hydration and skin recovery
Triple Vitamin C Serum
to support glow and moisture retention
Peptide Face & Neck Cream
hydrates while smoothing and firming
RETINOL
What It Is
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that helps your skin renew itself faster. It’s one of the most effective ingredients for smoothing fine lines, fading dark spots, treating acne, and improving skin texture over time.
How It Works
Your skin naturally sheds and replaces its cells every 28–40 days. Retinol speeds up that process—stimulating collagen, fading pigmentation, unclogging pores, and revealing fresher, smoother skin beneath the surface.
With long-term use, it helps rebuild your skin’s structure and resilience.
Understanding the Different Types of Retinoids
Retinoids vary in strength, irritation risk, and how many steps your skin needs to convert them into their active form (Retinoic Acid):
| Type | Conversion Needed | Irritation Risk | Available OTC? | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Retinyl Palmitate | 3 steps | Low | Yes | Weakest form |
| Retinol | 2 steps | Moderate | Yes | Most common OTC retinoid |
| Encapsulated Retinol | 2 steps (slow release) | Low–Moderate | Yes | Gentler, more stable |
| Retinaldehyde | 1 step | High | Yes | Strong, less stable |
| Granactive Retinoid | No conversion needed | Very Low | Yes | Highly stable + effective |
| Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid) | None | High | No (prescription) | Prescription only |
What We Use at DuoGen & Why
We use Encapsulated Retinol, a form that’s:
- Slowly released into the skin to minimise irritation
- Stabilised with the ROVISOME® delivery system Designed for long-term results without damaging the barrier
Each bottle of our Retinol Serum contains 0.15% true Retinol—not a blend, not inflated. Just real, bioavailable retinol in the right amount.
It’s supported by:
- Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid to strengthen and hydrate
- Pentylene Glycol and Polysorbate 20 for gentle delivery
This is your ideal starting point—effective enough to see real changes, gentle enough to stick with.
Efficacy Levels That Work
- Most visible results come from 0.1–0.5% true retinol when used consistently. That’s the sweet spot for performance without compromising your skin barrier.
- We use 0.15% encapsulated retinol—ideal for beginners and experienced users alike, especially when paired with barrier-supporting ingredients like Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid.
- Going higher doesn’t mean better. In fact:
Dermatologists rarely prescribe more than 0.05%–0.1% Tretinoin (the prescription-strength form of retinoic acid).
That’s already 10x stronger than standard retinol—and even then, it's introduced slowly.
So if you see a product claiming 2–5% retinol, it’s either:
- A marketing blend (not real retinol %), or
- A formula that would seriously irritate your skin if it’s true—and likely shouldn’t be used without medical guidance.
💡 Our philosophy:
Potency without purpose is pointless. What matters is form, delivery system, and your skin’s tolerance over time—not a flashy % on the front of a label.
What It Helps With
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Uneven tone and sun damage
- Acne, breakouts, and congestion
- Rough texture
- Dull or tired-looking skin
When & How to Use It
- When: Evening only
- How: Apply 1 pump to clean, dry skin. Follow with moisturiser.
- Start With: 2x a week, then increase gradually
- Must: Use SPF daily. Retinol makes skin more sensitive to the sun.
- Avoid: Layering with exfoliants or Vitamin C until your skin is used to actives
💡 Tip: Slight dryness or purging is normal in the first few weeks. That’s your skin adjusting. Slow down if needed, but don’t give up—retinol is a long game.
You’ll Find It In
Retinol Serum
to refine texture, reduce fine lines, and support overnight renewal
VITAMIN C
What It Is
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect your skin from damage, boosts collagen production, and brightens dull, uneven skin tone.
It’s one of the most researched ingredients in skincare—and one of the most misunderstood.
How It Works
Vitamin C protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals are unstable molecules caused by things like UV rays, pollution, and stress. Left unchecked, these can break down collagen and speed up ageing.
Vitamin C also slows melanin production, helping fade dark spots and even out skin tone, while stimulating collagen to reduce fine lines and firm the skin.
Understanding the Different Types of Vitamin C
There’s no one-size-fits-all Vitamin C. Different forms vary in strength, stability, and how deeply they penetrate the skin:
- Ascorbic Acid – the purest form, but can be unstable and irritating. Often marketed as the “strongest,” but needs careful formulation to work well.
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate – water-soluble, more stable, and gentler on skin. Also known for its ability to support acne-prone skin.
- 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid – oil-soluble and highly stable. Penetrates deeper layers of the skin for long-term brightening and firming.
- Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate – another oil-soluble form. Helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and works well with other antioxidants.
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – a gentle form ideal for dry or sensitive skin. Provides antioxidant protection without irritation.
💡 The key takeaway? It’s not just about % strength—it’s about stability, penetration, and how it’s formulated.
What We Use at DuoGen & Why
We created our Triple Vitamin C Serum using a blend of three complementary forms for visible results, without irritation:
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate – gentle and effective at brightening and calming acne-prone skin.
- 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid – stable and oil-soluble, meaning it reaches deeper layers of skin to boost radiance and elasticity.
- Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate – fat-soluble and well absorbed, perfect for reducing signs of ageing over time.
We also include:
- Ferulic Acid – stabilises Vitamin C and enhances antioxidant performance.
- Vitamin E (Tocopherol) – supports skin repair and increases the effects of Vitamin C.
This trio is designed to brighten, protect, and renew—without the burning, stinging, or quick oxidation that many “pure” Vitamin C products cause.
Efficacy Levels That Work
- A total concentration between 10–20% is effective when formulated with stabilising agents (like we do).
- All forms we use are included at clinically backed levels—high enough to perform, gentle enough for daily use.
Our formula prioritises results over raw %s. A high number on the label doesn’t always mean better outcomes for your skin.
What It Helps With
- Dull or tired-looking skin
- Sun damage and pigmentation
- Uneven skin tone
- Fine lines and loss of firmness
- Environmental stress (UV, pollution, etc.)
When & How to Use It
- When: Best used in the morning to boost your SPF protection (but can also be used at night).
- How: Apply 2–3 drops to clean, dry skin. Let it absorb, then follow with moisturiser and sunscreen.
- How Often: Start 3x per week, increase to daily use as tolerated.
Tips: Store in a cool, dark place to maximise freshness. Avoid layering with exfoliants or Retinol until your skin is used to actives.
You’ll Find It In
Triple Vitamin C Serum
our powerhouse antioxidant blend designed to brighten, protect, and renew
PEPTIDES
What They Are
Peptides are short chains of amino acids—the building blocks of protein in your skin. They act as messengers, telling your skin to produce more collagen, elastin, and other essential components for firmness and repair.
Think of them as your skin’s gentle push to rebuild what time (or stress) has worn down.
How They Work
As we age, our collagen production slows and our skin becomes thinner, drier, and less elastic. Peptides help signal the skin to:
- Increase collagen and elastin production
- Strengthen the skin barrier
- Improve resilience and firmness over time
They’re especially helpful as a non-irritating alternative or complement to retinol.
Understanding the Different Types of Peptides
There are many types of peptides in skincare. Each one sends a slightly different message:
- Signal peptides – tell the skin to boost collagen and elastin (e.g. Palmitoyl peptides)
- Carrier peptides – deliver trace minerals to support skin repair
- Neurotransmitter peptides – relax facial muscles, reducing expression lines (e.g. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, often called “Botox-like”)
- Enzyme-inhibitor peptides – slow down the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin
Many brands throw “peptides” on the label without explaining which ones are used—or if they’re even present in meaningful amounts.
What We Use at DuoGen & Why
We use clinically studied peptides chosen for results—not marketing buzz.
✅ Matrixyl® 3000 Complex
- Contains Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
- Proven to reduce wrinkle depth, improve elasticity, and restore a youthful skin structure
- Works by mimicking the skin’s natural repair processes
✅ Hexapeptide-10
- A firming peptide that helps improve skin density and reduce visible signs of ageing
- Supports the skin’s structural proteins for long-term lifting and resilience
These peptides are supported by:
- Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, Shea Butter, and Squalane to lock in hydration and repair the barrier
No fragrance or filler ingredients—just what your skin needs
Efficacy Levels That Work
- Peptides don’t need high %s to be effective—0.1–2% of a well-studied peptide complex is often enough
- Consistency is key. Results typically show after 6–12 weeks of daily use
- What matters is using the right peptides, in the right formula, with supportive ingredients to keep them stable and active
MYTH: “Peptides don’t really do anything.”
TRUTH: Not all peptides are created equal—but clinical blends like Matrixyl® 3000 are backed by research and results. Like retinol, peptides take time—but they’re ideal for sensitive skin or anyone looking to improve firmness without irritation.
What They Help With
- Loss of firmness
- Fine lines and expression wrinkles
- Dull, fatigued skin
- Dehydration and rough texture
- Supporting the skin barrier long-term
When & How to Use Them
- When: Morning and/or evening
- How: After cleansing and hydrating (HA), before moisturiser or SPF
- Layer With: Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Retinol (non-irritating combo)
Tip: Great for sensitive skin and safe to start at any age
You’ll Find It In
Peptide Eye Cream
to hydrate, smooth, and target fine lines
Peptide Face & Neck Cream
rich but non-greasy; supports firmness + barrier repair overnight
NIACINAMIDE
What It Is
Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 that strengthens your skin barrier, calms inflammation, balances oil production, and brightens uneven tone.
It’s one of the most versatile ingredients in skincare—suitable for almost every skin type and concern.
How It Works
Niacinamide helps rebuild your skin’s natural barrier by boosting ceramide production. This improves moisture retention, reduces redness, and protects your skin from irritation.
It also slows down melanin transfer, which helps fade pigmentation and post-breakout marks. And it helps regulate sebum, making it great for oily or acne-prone skin.
Understanding the Different Strengths
Niacinamide works on a dose-dependent curve—up to a point.
- 2–5% is the most effective and well-tolerated range
- 10%+ formulas can irritate sensitive skin without delivering better results
- Very high doses (15%+) are often used in spot treatments, not daily-use serums or moisturisers
More isn’t always better. In fact, too much can cause the very problems you’re trying to fix—like redness, stinging, or barrier damage.
What We Use at DuoGen & Why
We use 5% pure Niacinamide—the optimal level backed by clinical studies to improve tone, texture, and barrier strength without overloading the skin.
It’s included in:
Our Daily Niacinamide Moisturiser, where it’s supported by:
- Glycerin + Betaine for hydration
- Squalane + Shea Butter for nourishment
- No fragrance or drying alcohols
You’ll also find it at a lower % in:
- Our Clarifying Toner — paired with AHA/BHA for brightening and breakout care
Efficacy Levels That Work
- 5% is the sweet spot: high enough to deliver results, low enough to keep skin calm
- Going above 10% doesn’t improve efficacy—but it can trigger irritation, especially if your barrier is already compromised
- Our formula is designed for daily use by all skin types
MYTH: “I need 10%+ niacinamide for it to work.”
TRUTH: Studies show 5% performs just as well—with less irritation. Higher %s aren’t stronger, they’re just riskier. What your skin needs is balance, not overload.
What It Helps With
- Uneven skin tone
- Redness and sensitivity
- Post-acne marks
- Oil regulation
- Pore appearance
- Barrier repair
When & How to Use It
- When: Morning and/or evening
- How: After cleansing and before moisturiser (if using a serum); or as your moisturiser step
- Pairs Well With: Retinol, Vitamin C, Peptides, Hyaluronic Acid
Tips: It’s one of the easiest actives to introduce. Ideal for sensitive skin and safe to use daily
You’ll Find It In
5% Niacinamide Daily Moisturiser
lightweight, barrier-repairing hydration
AHA & BHA Clarifying Toner
gently exfoliates and clears with AHA/BHA + Niacinamide
- Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.